Tuesday, May 26, 2020

Dress a Day sewing challenge

There's a blog - or site - Dress a Day
And in my stupidity I actually thought that was a sewing blog where the owner sews a dress a day for some time... like a month or a year or so. Nah. I really don't know what that is all about... I suppose in its previous incarnation it at least meant to post a dress every day for some certain period of time, but I don't know if that ever happened... they have kind of made the old site link to the new site, so that all the links to the old site lead to nowhere... :-( Which is very upsetting and tiresome and bothersome, so I lost interest.
But - the idea stayed.

So, I'm going to sew a dress a day for a year.
Or not. I don't think I can continue doing that for 365 days! And what would I do with 365 dresses?
Maybe a dress every day for a month? That I could do. I wouldn't mind having 30 summer dresses :-D
So - a dress a day sewing challenge during June 2020. 

I will be making the things from these two boards and then delete the boards, so if you see anything you like, pin it for yourself.
- Sewing Clothes; Dresses
- Summer dresses

There is a huge problem with this project, and that is that I have a limited amount of materials... I can't just decide to sew something, go and buy the materials, patterns, notions and such needed to sew it, I have to use what I have and only buy the absolute necessary...

So - I have to adjust my projects to the materials.

I am planning on using a lot of my stash, make new from old clothes, and other such things... I could buy some used clothes to make new things of them. I have some old sheets and such, which will make a couple of dresses, I assume.

Some things on my to do list:

40s dress for the garden tea party on my sister's birthday in July

Diane von Furstenberg wrap dress. I have wanted one for a couple of years.

I would like an infinity dress... though I don't think that's a good idea for a fat woman with big boobs :-D (But I have seen fat women with big boobs rock an infinity dress... so... maybe...)
I have a fitted jersey sheet put aside for this... I think I have to dye it, though... it's... beige-ish. Golden sand? Dun? Well... not my color :-D

I have a couple of dresses that are too small or not quite as I'd like them, for example one absolutely lovely flower dress, but it doesn't have sleeves, and - being a fat, old woman, I want sleeves. I also have one "singoalla" dress (peasant, gypsy, or something like that) but it doesn't have enough room for my boobs. Also, I have the dress I was wearing when I met my husband-to-be, and I'd like to have that in my size... it was 40 kilos ago ;-)
Also, I'd love to remake the jumpsuit I had that time... I loved it, but it was... that... beige-ish what ever color... oat? and it really doesn't fit me at all :-D I know it's not a dress, but does it really matter that much? I mean, it's the same kind of sewing, one just have to make pants instead of a skirt, and as it's palazzo pants, it looks kind of the same as a dress...
Now, this isn't quite like it, but it had the same kind of fitted bodice, short cap sleeves, wide legs and slightly raised waist - to my natural waist, which is high. Not quite empire line. It had open neckline, slightly v-d - not quite as generous as this one :-D Also, it had a back zipper, no buttons. It was soft viscose and I loved it.
but - this one comes very close :-D

Wednesday, May 20, 2020

Challenge accepted...

I am a fool... :-(
I just can't resist a challenge.

So, on Thursday I saw someone had posted a photo of the back of a 18th century dress, and someone else commented with "How many people working and hours worked might have been spent on a dress like this?", and the poster responded with:"If you’re just talking about the sewing, there are costumers who have handsewn ones like this in just two days."
Handsewn in just two days!? Sounds like a challenge to me :-D

So... I am about to sew a 18th century dress in just two days.
I am glad about the fact that that is only the sewing. Not pattern drafting, getting the materials, making the foundation layers or any other of this stuff, because it was a lot longer than two days ago :-D (It's Tuesday today).

Also, I have never sewn a 18th century dress before. Or worn one. So this is total virgin ground here :-D

I'm really good at sewing for hand, though, and not averse to drafting and other such things.
Also, I have already dabbled with corsets. (You might remember my 1911 corset sew-along I was supposed to do... I haven't done anything about it since that time... there were some things happening in my life and home that has made it very difficult to sew anything, and all my projects has been packed away, and now I don't even know where they are... And I am very unhappy about it. :-()

So - I have been doing some research... Here's my Pinterest board about this project. (Yes, I know, I hate Pinterest and need to leave it. But not quite yet... I'm working on it.)

I'm going to make myself a robe a l'anglaise retroussée, with a tight fitting bodice and an overskirt that is going to be worn "a la polonaise" (and as I was taught, just because one puffs up the skirt, it doesn't make the dress "polonaise", because robe a la polonaise has a different bodice, and I don't like that bodice. I want it flowery, and if I can't find fabric that pleases me, I'll either paint it or embroider it. Both options please me :-D (Yes, I know, I'm mad. Especially if I plan on embroidering a 18th century dress... it will take a bit longer than two days. Even though I'm fast :-D)

I will be making myself 
- a shift
- stockings (yes, knitted, because they knitted stocking already in the 18th century)
- garters
- shoes (I have been thinking about actually making them, carving the heel from wood and making them of leather and brocade, but I think I'll just buy a new pair and rehash them to play the part. It's not going to be historically accurate anyway...) 
- petticoats - I am thinking about one with a flounce and one quilted... if I'm going to wear it in the summer, the quilted might be too much, but I have worn a Viking carb made with wool during the summer as well, so i think I'll manage a quilted petticoat. After all, there isn't much on top, and there will be wide brimmed hat, fan and parasol. I think I'll manage. It looks pretty. Also, it works as insulation :-D
- stays
- pockets
- bum roll (yeah... they didn't use panniers much in the 1770, but they had a "fake bum" :-D
- fichu
- engageantes (sleeve ruffles)
- bows
- cap
- hat
- I will use my fan and parasol I have already
- hair - I need to get some things for my hair. A bit of fake hair, to begin with, because my hair isn't long enough. And I need the "rat" :-D

Anyway, today I printed out a corset pattern. Or stays, actually. I don't know what's the difference, and I really don't care either. The pattern is size 8. I'm size 24.
Also, there are no instructions...
I thought the pattern would be a good starting point, but now I'm starting to wonder...
I added 8 cm to each pattern and redraw the edge line... I'll need to "rebone" them, too, (re-draw the boning channel lines) but that's a minor problem. I think that can be done without drawing them, and just sewing lines with a certain distance.
I will also need to add the flaps around the edge. After all, this is a 17th century corset and I'm making an 18th century corset.
I need to get the pattern right, though, first, and for that purpose the flaps and bones aren't necessary. I need to get it wide enough for me, and tight enough (considering I added too much width to the 1911 corset), enough gap between edges for lacing (and there's lacing front and back... I don't know if I'll have that or not... it would make fitting easier), the breast high enough and wide enough for my breasts, the armscyes big enough but not too big, the hip hole high enough...

And then I just do what she did:

Tuesday, May 19, 2020

Dress made from handkerchiefs 1881 from Peterson's magazine

"We give, here, a new design for making up a Madras costume, either of wool or gingham. 
These handkerchief-boarder goods come in fine wool and cottons, either woven in squares, with border all round, or with the border on one or both edges of the plain cloth; or the plaid. Bayadere stripes, or brocaded goods can be bought by the yard, and put on as a border. The Bayadere stripes are the newest thing out, in the way of combination trimming. 

Our model here is of fine wool, with handkerchief-border. 

The round skirt is trimmed with a side, or as it is often called, a kilt-plaiting, half the width of the goods, which is a yard wide. Allow three times the fullness for the plaiting. 
A very narrow skirt is required; but little over two yards in width for the foundation. And to this the plaiting is arranged. 
Two handkerchiefs are then disposed of, forming a pointed tunic, which is fastened in front with a knotted end at the knee, as seen in the illustration.   
The back is formed of two more handkerchiefs, with the fullness placed in irregular poufs. 
The long basque-bodice is gathered to the fronts, at the neck and waist, the border of the handkerchiefs forming the hem for buttons and buttonholes, and also making the turned-back revers. 
The back of the basque is looped up en panier. 
Handkerchief fichu, knotted at the throat. 
Coat sleeves, with pointed cuffs of the border. 
From ten to twelve handkerchiefs will be required, with plain material enough to make the foundation of the skirt which must match in color and quality as near as possible. 

These wool handkerchiefs cost from fifty cents to one dollar and a –half apiece. 
The cotton or Madras ones from thirty-five cents to fifty cents each."

Some pattern links and useful information

Hair and Makeup

1920s Collection of Hairstyles
1940 Hairstyle Photo
1940 Hairstyles by Daniela Turudich
1940 Lauren Bacall Vintage Hairstyle Tutorial
1940 Rope Braid Tutorial
1947 4-Pin-Curl Formula for vintage waves
1950 The Vintage Hairstyle
1960 The International Convertible Haircut
1960s Booklet: 75 Hair Styles
1962 Standard textbook of cosmetology
1962 The Tip-Top Book of Easy-To-Do Hair Styles
1968 Setting Patterns
1971 Hairdos
Big Poofy Wig Curls
Darker Skin Vintage Makeup Series
Middy Haircut Diagrams

Historical & Vintage

3000 BC How to make the Tarkhan Dress PDF
3000 BC Tarkhan Dress
0500 Celtic-British Peplos
0800 Anglo Saxon Tunic
0900 Viking Apron Dress
1146 Norman
1220 Cyclas
1250 Geometric Tunic
1330 Gothic Fitted Dress (Cotehardie)
1350 Sideless Surcoat
1380 Man's Cotehardie
1410 Houppelande
1480s Florentine Gown by Festive Attyre
1490 Italian Dress
1550 Persian Wardrobe
1560 Make puffs on sleeves
1565 Elizabethan Doublet and Skirt
1565 Elizabethan Loose Gown
1565 Elizabethan Underwear
1575 Irish Leine and Overdress
1589 Over 150 (mostly) men's cloak and doublet patterns
1660-1680 Silk Stays - V&A Publishing
1700s Make 18th century pockets - Victoria and Albert Museum
1740 Man's Waistcoat China for the Western market
1750 Man's At-home Robe (Banyan) Netherlands
1750 Man's Waistcoat France
1751 The Encyclopedia of Diderot & d'Alembert Collaborative Translation Project
1770 Man's suit Italian
1780 How I Made My Tall Crown Hat | The Modern Mantua-Maker
1790 Man's Coat France
1790 Woman's Dress (Redingote) Europe
1795 Gown
1800 - 1810 Dressing Gown
1800 - 1810 Spencer
1800 - 1815 Morning Gown
1800 Corset
1800 Muslin Gown
1800 Wrap Brassiere
1800s (Early,) Apron Front Gown
1800s (Early) Mans Shirt
1800s (Early) Silk Pelisse
1800s (early) women's garments
1800s Belly Box
1800s Cartridge Waist Belt
1800s Chemises
1800s Embroidered Pelisse
1800s Hunting Pouch
1800s Officers Cartridge Box
1800s Oval Plate Box
1800s Saddle Bags
1800s West Point Militia Knapsack
1800s West Point Militia Knapsack 2
1800s Womans Chemise
1807 - 1810 Wedding Dress
1808 - 1812 Militia Officers Coat
1808 Militia Officers Chapeau
1809s Riflemans Pouch
1810 - 1815 Mans Vest
1811 Corset
1812 - 1813 Wool Uniform Coatee
1812 - 1814 Men's Uniform Coatee
1812 Men's Regimental US Coatee
1812 Ohio Militia Musicians Coat
1812 Ohio Militia Officers Coat
1813 Men's US Fatigue Frock
1815 - 1818 Spencer
1815 Man's Frock Coat France
1817 US Military Trousers
1818 - 1820 Mens Trousers
1818 - 1825 Mens Coat
1818 Embroidery Pattern Designs
1820- 1830 US Officers Military Coat
1830 1840 corded petticoat
1840 Cap
1840 Chemise
1840 Hats
1840 Man's Vest with Removable Chest Pads England
1840 Pantaloons
1840 Shirt
1840 Sleeves
1855 Boy's Frock India for the Western Market
1860s Plaid Bodice
1863 Silk Brocade Bodice with Swiss Belt
1865 - 1870 Red, Blue & Green Plaid Bodice
1868 The corset and the crinoline
1870 The freaks of fashion : with illustrations
1877 The ladies' guide to needle work
1878 Girls Dress
1878 Lady's Winter Mantle
1878 Mme Demorest What to Wear and How to Make It
1880 - 1882 Silk organdy bodice
1880 - 1890 Black Silk Faille Bodice
1880 - 1890 Green Riding Jacket, Skirt, and Trousers
1880 - 1890 Ivory Wedding Bodice
1880 - 1890 Two-piece Brocade Bustle Dress
1880 Bustle Dress in Brown Silk
1883 Black Silk Paper Taffeta Bodice
1885 - 1890 Purple brocade ensemble with two bodices
1885 - 1895 Gray faille bodice
1885 - 1895 Late Victorian Bodice
1885 Woman's Coat England
1886 - 1890 Brown Bustle Ensemble
1886 Cutting a Fashionable Fit: Dressmakers Drafting System
1887 - 1900 Velvet and brocade ensemble
1888 women's garments
1890 - 1895 Black and Green Bodice
1890 - 1895 Butterscotch Wool Bodice
1890 women's garments
1891 - 1893 Beaded Black Faille Silk Bodice
1891 - 1901 Corsets
1892 - 1897 Green and Brown Chrome Spun Bodice
1893 - 1898 Brown silk bodice
1894 Ladies's work for pleasure and profit
1895 - 1905 Deep Royal Blue Jacket
1895 Cream Lace and Wool Bodice
1895- 1897 Silk Striped Bodice
1897 Silk Wedding Bodice
1898 - 1905 Black Velvet Beaded Bodice
1899 - 1901 Violet and cream striped bodice
1900 - 1910 Mens Frock Coat
1902 - 1907 Bodice and Skirt
1902 Green velvet ensemble
1905 - 1915 Cream Lace Bodice
1905 - 1915 Navy Silk and Wool Embroidered Bodice
1906 Catalog of Corsets
1907 - 1910 Silk Edwardian Bodice
1907 - 1917 Pink Silk Ensemble
1907 Automobile Coat
1907 Chaplain and Knights Templar Coat
1907 Coachman's Coat
1907 Footmans Coat
1907 Golf Coat
1907 Men's Frock Coat or Prince Albert
1907 Men's Overcoats
1907 Mens Full Dress
1907 Mens Trousers
1907 Mens Tuxedo or Dinner Jacket
1907 Mens US Army Uniforms
1907 Mens Vests
1907 Policemen's Coat
1908 - 1911 Creme Gauze and Lace Bodice
1908 - 1910 Tobacco Wool Ensemble
1909 - 1912 Blue Polka Dot Evening Gown
1910 - 1914 Purple Silk Embroidered Bodice
1911 Singer instructions for art embroidery
1911 Titanic Corset
1912 - 1926 Man's Overcoat Japan
1912 Thornton's International System of Ladies Garment Cutting
1912 woman's garments
1913 Woman's Lounging Pajamas Paris
1914 Brassiere
1919 A complete course in millinery
1920 - 1930 Silk Chiffon and Lace Evening Gown
1920 Home millinery
1920s bloomers
1920s costume slip
1921 The new dressmaker; with complete and fully illustrated instructions Butterick Publishing
1922 Modern millinery; a workroom text book
1925 bathing suit
1925 bedroom dress
1925 bra
1925 chemise set
1925 combination slip
1925 corset
1925 cotton voile dress
1925 crochet dress
1925 day dress
1925 dress with pleated skirt
1925 elegant coat
1925 elegant dress
1925 evening city dress
1925 fashionable winter coat
1925 housedress
1925 night dress
1925 nightgown
1925 party dress
1925 preteen coat
1925 preteen dress
1925 pretty dress
1925 tennis dress
1925 Underwear and Lingerie Woman's Institue of Domestic Arts and Sciences
1925 winter housedress
1926 Underwear and Lingerie Woman's Institue of Domestic Arts and Sciences
1928 woman's magic wrap
1930s - 1940s dress
1930s Circular French Knickers
1930s inspired nightgown
1930s style PJ Top  Pattern
1930s Women's Blouse
1931 How to make hats; a method of self-instruction
1935 Fashions Crochet and Knitting | Book No. 29 | The Spool Cotton Company | Crochet Patterns
1935 The Book of Edgings | Book No. 56 | The Spool Cotton Company | Crochet Patterns
1939 Hats and Bags | Book No. 126 | The Spool Cotton Company | Crochet Patterns
1940 Make Mend For Victory: alterations, make over, accessories, mending and darning : Spool Cotton Co. : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive
1940s (early) slip and bloomers
1940s (early) trousseau nightgown
1940s Inspired Utility Apron
1940s Little Handbag
1940s Scarf Hair Tutorials - Flashback Summer
1940s Style Mini Cape
1940s Vogue 9837 Hat and Bag
1941 Man's Zoot Suit USA
1943 Easy to Make Hats, Scarves and Accessories | Book No. 192 | The Spool Cotton Company | Crochet Patterns
1945 White Organdy Bodice
1950s Circle Skirt
1950s pleat front dress
1950s Style Big Knicker Pattern | sew VeraVenus
1950s Style Dress | sew VeraVenus
1950s style Reversible Stole
1950s Tweed Handbag
1953 Stoles & Shrugs | Star Book No. 103 | American Thread Company | Crochet Patterns
1960s Mary Quant-style minidress
1962 Mary Quant 'Georgie' dress
2002 The art of making miniature millinery
Haslam Patterns on Pinterest
Haslam System Chart Ruler

Modern & Retro

1950s Carmen Dress
Adjustable Waist Half Circle Skirt with Hidden Pockets!
Adult Peasant Blouse Tutorial
Appliquéd Shirt
Box-pleated Skirt
Cardigan Coat
Download Dozens of Free Sewing Patterns - Mood Sewciety
French Knicker Tutorial
Grandpa Cardigan
Grecian Sundress Pattern | Tanit-Isis Sews
Hepburn Style Trouser Pattern
How to make a Short Petticoat (Tutorial) - YouTube
Keyhole Neck Blouse
Mexican-style huipil
Mock-Wrap Jersey Dress
Overbust Corset Style 1
Overbust Corset Style 2
Pussycat Bow blouse
Ruffled Petticoat Tutorial
Skirt Drafting Tutorial
Slinky Bias Slip
Sundress Bodice
Sweetheart Halter Dress
Waspie Underbust Corset
Zero Waste Modern Patterns

Techniques and Tips

Big Poofy Bows Pattern
Big Poofy Bows Tutorial – Cosmic Coterie
Continuous Bias Tape - YouTube
Dolman Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial - Hey June Handmade
Fit and Making a Muslin ft. FBA technique
Free In-Seam Pocket Pattern
Full Bust Adjustment
Full Bust Adjustment Kimono Bodice - ClosetCasePatterns
Full Bust Adjustment Kimono Bodice – Stream Of Consciousness Sewing
Hand-Stitch Hems Like a Pro! on Vimeo
Handsewn “Serging: 1790s Style! on Vimeo
Hemming using a basting stitch as a guide
Historical Trim Tutorial
How to Add Pockets to Pocketless Skirts & Dresses - YouTube
How to do a Weird Running Whip Stitch Thingy.
How to Easily Move Your Bust & Waist Darts to Fit Your Figure - Itch To Stitch
Imitation Hemstitching / Picot
Large FBA Solution: The Y-Dart FBA
Learn to Backstitch! on Vimeo
Learn to hand roll hems! on Vimeo
Menswear Tailoring Techniques RoundUp
Narrow shoulder adjustment
Perfect Fit Guides for Petite Plus Women
Sewing Pockets Using French Seams | WeAllSew
Sewing secrets from the fashion industry : proven methods to help you sew like the pros : Internet Archive
Three Ways to Clean Fur
Trace your shoulder for a better fit
Where to Place the Points of Bust Darts

Some Pinterest boards with old patterns:

Lone Madsen's board
María Jesús Collados Martín-Posadillo's board
Melody Mann's board
Marjorie Porter's board
Amanda Chaik Range's board
Dorothy Powell's board (mostly doll stuff)
June Dolly's board
Susan Rogers's board
Deana Tollerton's board
Tenn Flamingo's board
Molly Weiss' board


Some Woman's Home Companion magazines 1908-1923