The Historical Sew Forthnightly

 

My ideas for this challenge:

#0 Starting simple

I think a Regency chemise is a simple and quick thing to sew. 

#1 Bi-Centennial

A Regency dress from 1813

#2 UFO

I have the 1911 corset :-D Though... I don't want one. So... maybe make the 18th-century stays I made the pattern for. Maybe use some of the materials for the 1911 corset for the 18th-century stays.

#3 undergarments :-D

Like, that's what I have been making :-D
Let's make the rest of the Regency undergarments. That's the stays and the petticoat.

#4 Embellishments... 

Hat. Let's embellish a Regency bonnet.

#5 The Common Woman... poor people. Hmm...

#6 Striped

Well... I found something "peasant-y" :-D

This is "Strawberry Girl" by Nils Schillmark, painted in 1782. Her clothes are most likely homespun, -dyed, and -woven linen. I have wanted that "skjörttröja" for some 30 years now :-D It is very easy to make, and very comfortable. And I think it's rather pretty. 

#7 Accessories...

I think I want to make gloves.

Specifically these gloves.

I think I could use them in my Mylady Winter cosplay.

#8 By the Sea

Well... what about these three bathing beauties?

I was thinking about the Victorian knitted underwear

#9 Flora and Fauna

I could paint my 18th-century frock fabric. 

#10 Literature

Milady Winter cosplay, of course. Though there's a lot to choose from here :-) I could make Irene Adler cosplay also. 

#11 Squares, Rectangles & Triangles

Eura dress has been on my TDL for a long time now... I love the "no waste" folk costume patterns. 

Another "no waste" pattern I need to do is the 16th-century Trossfrau shirt. 

I am also very interested in South-East Asian traditional costumes like Hanfu and Hanbok. They are very much sewn from geometric straight-edge pieces. 

#12 Pretty princesses... Hmmm...

You know, we all have the Dream Project... I have a very ambitious one, to make all the Queen Elizabeth I's portraits in costumes... especially the Rainbow Portrait. 

I am obsessed with that snake. And the colors are absolutely amazing, as well...

But not for this. 

So what... hmmm... I think Queen Maud of Norway was one of the best-dressed royals in world history. (With my very limited knowledge.)

Empress Sisi of Austria was also famous for her style and beauty, likewise Henrietta Maria of England. I could choose her and make the Mylady dress... But... hmm... I'll think about this, later.

Maybe Queen Margrethe I's golden gown? 

#13 Lace and lacing

I think I'll make it easy for me and make another corset :-D

I could also make the Trossfrau dress.

#14 Eastern Influence

The 1895 tea gown, for my Irene Adler cosplay.

#15 Colour Challenge White

Yeah, underwear :-D That stuff is always needed. (I could also make that smocked underdress for the tea gown.)

#16 Separates

This will be the cartridge pleated skirt.

#17 Robes and Robing

That would be my Robe anglaise retroussée à la polonaise, now when I have painted the fabric ;-)

#18 Remake, reuse, refashion, reshape, repurpose...

That would be my Jane Austen gown I'll be sewing from a modern skirt and shirt. 

#19 Wood, metal, bone...

The Renaissance frame purse. There will be metal in the frame and also in the gold embroidery.

#20 Outerwear

Now, I'm pretty sure there's a lot I should be doing, but let's take one of the Dream projects; this 1911 Paul Poiret coat with Raoul Dufy fabric - and let's make fake fur, too.

#21 Green

Huh. I could (finally) make the Eura costume. 

#22 Masquerade

This is actually the Halloween fortnight :-D I think I'd like some sort of Victorian masquerade costume... like Worth or something. :-D

Here we have Worth's Eve and Snake, a demon with fancy flames on her skirt, and Hecate. I also found an amazing Storm at Sea costume, with wild waves and ships in distress on the skirt, and a couple of furies, with wild hair and snakes and things :-D 

#23 The Thanksgiving theme

There's so much generosity around :-) I want to thank the whole Costube, the costumers of YouTube, those who make historical clothes and those who make cosplay things, the clothes historians who share information, and those who review costume movies and series. I want to thank all the makers of YouTube, especially those making tutorials. I have learned so much from YouTube videos, so I am grateful, even though some of the YouTube features and policies suck.

#24 Re-Do 

Let's decide this in November, OK :-D 

#25 One metre challenge... oh... (You could easily do 1 yard challenge, it's about the same)

A lot of things to do with 1 yard of fabric. 

- parasol cover

- hat

- bag

- mask

- hoods, cowls, gollars, collars

- scarfs,

- handkerchiefs

- gloves, mittens

- belt

- socks, stockings

- spats

- muff, cap, and muffetees (wrist covers)

- apron and sleeve covers

- underwear

#26 Celebrate!

Now... this should be some sort of silver dress for New Year's Eve... I kind of like this Mary Magdalene by Carlo Crivelli, with her embroidered jacket and star skirt. It reminds me of Skandinavian folk dresses. We don't see much of the rest of her outfit, as her cape covers her lower body. We just see her toes covered in white, could be soft shoes or stockings :-D But that jacket is amazing. All that heavy gold embroidery. Her hair is amazing as well, and that necklace is very interesting.

First fitting of the corset

1911 corset sew-a-long

I'm really, really disappointed.

If you have been reading my posts, you know I was really sad about needing to add 2 1/2 inches to every pattern piece, because I'm twice as thick as the woman the pattern was made for.

Now I have sewn the mock-up.

It's way too big.
I need to take in EVERY SEAM for at least 1/2 inch and it was like a skirt on the hips. The lacing edges were together.

Again, I look at the images of the "adding/removing fabric", and it's just a minor adjustment. I need to... do the whole f-ing thing again,

Yeah, sure, I'm not quite as fat as I thought I was. But...
Oh, and I know I should have measured the hip on the pattern and not widened it quite the 2 1/2 inches, because I know I'm an apple and most patterns are made for pears. Pears with long waist and small boobs. Like the individual this pretty pink thing was made for.

So... I'm scared that the long bones are too long for me.

I also noticed that I had read wrong the list, and I don't have any 1/2 inch wide bones.

I'm so not happy right now.


I have been procrastinating sewing the mock-up, because I'm so uncertain, so afraid, and it would have been nice to have some confirmation and encouragement, but... I just feel like a complete failure.

Sure, I'm sewing myself a corset. Yay, me. :´(

Diary of a corset maker... (procrastinating...)

Monday 1st of October:
I have finished the pattern, and try to gather courage to sew the fitting sample. But, I haven't received my package from UK yet, so I have no bones and no busk... so...
Yes, I know. Excuses, excuses. *sigh*

Wednesday 3rd of October:
My package arrived and I fetched it.

Thursday 4th of October:
I washed my denim.

Friday 5th of October:
I hanged my denim to dry.

Saturday 6th of October:
I ironed my denim. I can't make my mock of that. The fabric is too nice.

After a couple of hours procrastinating I decided to use some old sheets.

I hate cutting. Or not hate, I'm scared of it. I really, really dislike doing it, because it scares me. It doesn't matter that it's the mock copy, and the fabric is not worth much. Doesn't matter. I'm sure I have made some grave mistakes, and the mock copy will be nasty and twisted and I won't be able to transfer the corrections to the pattern and my corset will be awful and it's all waste of time, money and effort, and I'm going to hell for being a bad seamstress. With all my education and all.

Now I have cut the mock copy and I need to sew it. I'm scared. I don't want to... I'm going to do something wrong and everything will go wrong and it will be awful and... God will strike me down with a fiery hammer for not being good at sewing corsets.

Yes, it's my first one, what's your point?

I'm a bad, bad person and I'll go to hell.

Big-Ass Book of Crafts

Ok.

In Finland there's something called "käsityö" and something called "askartelu". The difference is the skills required to do the things.
If school kids can do it with a little instructions - like, let's say, punch holes, melt plastic and glue stuff on stuff, it's "askartelu".
If you would actually benefit of professional schooling to create good quality items people would pay for, because they can't make them themselves, even after reading the instructions in a book or internet, that's "käsityö".
The lexicon says that "käsityö" is crafts. Handwork, needlecraft, handicraft.
"Askartelu" is pottering or hobby crafts.

To me the difference is great and important.
To have these thousands of people, usually women, pottering about with paper, felt, cardboard and plastic and other kindergarten crafts, and believing to be craftswomen...
I'm sorry. I am. You are not. You are a potterer.

Sure you are creative, sure you make wonderful things - sure, you are more of a doer and maker than I am, who do practically nothing, but you are not a craftswoman.
Sure, you gather skills as you potter about, and some of your creations are actually very good. But you are not a craftswoman.
Sure, this is just my opinion.

I was really excited to see "Big-Ass Book of Crafts". I have Asperger's and one of the usual characteristics is to collect as much information and data as possible. And there are two of these "Big-Ass Books of Crafts"! Yupee! I'm in heaven! Yes, I want!!!

Until I went to Amazon.com to see what it is.
Oh, yes. Glueing things on things. Making things of garbage, like TP rolls and PET bottles and plastic spoons. Taking things and making new things of things by... glueing things on them. Pottering.

I am very disappointed. I was running to a smorgasboard filled with my favorite dishes to see it was some re-heated stuff I don't like.
So, excuse my rant.

I'm sure the book is lovely, and there are a lot of people out there who love this book. And the ideas are great and it's wonderful people are creative and make things. It really is.
I still think all those potterers are more makers than I am, and I truly envy their enthusiasm and productivity. I wish I had just 10% of it.
Oh, and I know some real craftswomen love this book, and I envy them that too. I wish I could see past my strict and, actually, rather limiting definitions.

Doctors IX, X, XI, XiI

I wrote this 2020 :-D

Ninth Doctor is even more straightforward :-D

Black, worn leather jacket, black shoes, black pants, low v-neck dark t-shirt. He has worn black, dark green, dark burgundy, navy and probably some other very dark colors.
Now, as far as I know, ladies didn't have leather jackets in the 1880s, but I found this, "Ladies' pleated jacket", from 1883. Good enough, I say :-D

Then my doctor, 10th. Now, he was wearing the brown pin striped suit and a navy suit, different shirts and ties. He also had this lovely long coat and converses :-D

Tennis shoes - canvas shoes with rubber soles - were introduced in the 19th century, so I can have those :-D

These shoes are from 1892. Yeah... Unused, tucked away for 100 years, but they were made 1892.

So - here's a traveling coat Tissot painted 1880 and 1881.

Illustrirte Frauen-Zeitung 1880: 

Walking or indoor dress with basque bodice with added peplums and pleated skirt. 

Walking dresses 1880

A ladies' button down shirt from 1880s.

The Eleventh Doctor isn't that much different, again. A button-down shirt, bowtie, tweed jacket (he wears a vest every now and then), shortish pants and boots, suspenders, and a fez. Also, he has a dark green long coat. And a fez. Fezzes are cool.

He also wore a bit of everything, but mostly black. Often the long velvet coat and black pants and boots. I kind of like the hoodie, and that splash painted sweater... it looks like the space :-D

knitted spencers; first from 1848, the second from Godey's lady's book for 1861

And then the 12th doctor

This is something quite different, again... her long coat is light now, with darker cording, it has dark grey lining with hoodie... looks almost as another coat under the light one. She has a rainbow striped shirt (occasionally also a rainbow scarf), teal pants (look almost like men's pants that have been turned up... ?)

Doctors VII and VIII

The Seventh Doctor is also very straight forward.

Here's the pattern for the sweater vest

I love those spectators :-D I wonder where I can find spectator boots Victorian style in brown and white with that kind of cut... *sigh*
Plaid in pants, this time. *sigh*
And a paisley scarf, paisley tie, paisley snuff hankie and the umbrella with a question mark handle.

And so is the Eighth.

Greenish black velvet coat, long; brocade vest; cravat; white shirt; brown tweed trousers, a bit too long... that's some nice wool... *drool* - and... galosches?

Edited 17/2-14 - To Dorian: what does Doctor VII have under his coat

Doctor VI

I understand. I truly understand.

This outfit is horrible.

He's wearing a shirt with gingham collar and cuffs. He's wearing a polkadot tie. He's wearing a patchwork vest and coat, made with upholstering fabric. He's wearing yellow striped pants. He's wearing green shoes and red spats. And that hair... I know it was really fashionable at that time, but...
They made a clown of the good Doctor. :-(
Oh, and don't forget the black cat lapel pin.
And the plaid is still there. Some parts of the coat are plaid. A lot of parts of the coat are actually plaid.

Bright Japanese Victorian Circus Clown Long Patchwork Coat

So - I really think I should go for the circus artist, variety artist, vaudeville burlesque artist way here.
Striped stockings, boots with really big satin bows, short, striped skirt, patchwork jacket and really curly, yellow hair... I think about aunt Pittypat from Gone With The Wind.. she was described as having yellow ringlets or curls... (I read the book in Finnish).

USonian independence day costume and a chorus girl from a variety show

both are said to be from 1880's

Doctors IV and V

IV is the one with the scarf. The rest of the outfit is lovely 70's tweet... with a coat, checkered vest, a hat and a rust colored cravat.
The thing with this is that I have never really thought about what the Doctor is wearing, and now I notice to my horror that the plaid seems to be his insignia... I hate plaid...

But - here's some coats from 1880's. The first one is a hunting costume with a big, rust colored bow. The second is a trenchcoat kind of coat and the last is a traveling coat, which are - of course - more interesting when it comes to my Victorian Femme Doctor costume.

I haven't been able to find any vests of any kind from the 1880's, nor blouses. Seems those become fashionable some 20 years later, so I suppose I need to mix with the historical accuracy a little. Considering that the good Doctor is a time traveler, that shouldn't be a problem. Here a couple of suggestions of the plaid vest.

I can imagine the outfit being of tweed and sort of a hunting-traveling-wandering outfit. Not very long skirt, of a simple cut, and good quality grey tweed, and brown boots. And I would like to give her a fancier hat.

Also, it's rather funny how well this curled hairdo fits the IV perfectly :-D

Doctor V, then... He's wearing a cricket outfit, but women didn't start playing cricket before 1920's... awful, isn't it! But - the costume is pretty straight forward, anyway, with a couple of adjustments.
V wears a sweater, a shirt with colored inner collar, a nice coat with piping and striped trousars, white shoes and a hat.

 I was thinking about these tennis and "seaside" outfits. In right colors, of course.

His hair, though, causes me some trouble... the ladies did not have their hair in such disorder back at 1880's. The closest I get is Cora Allen O'Hair.

I suppose a boater is most appropriate hat for the purpose, and then white boots.